before you buy an Akita


  • perfect silent guardian,
  • incorruptible and distrustful of strangers,
  • infinitely loving its owner,
  • correctly recognizing the threat,
  • eager and quick to learn,
  • great at harnessing and more…


  • consistency in upbringing,
  • properly established "herd hierarchy",
  • socialization with people and dogs,
  • strong bond with the owner,
  • long walks or runs,
  • good food (no soy protein, fishmeal and other nasties)

don't buy an akita...

Are you interested in buying an Akita? Probably, otherwise you wouldn't be reading this article. You met this beautiful dog somewhere and you were enchanted by its exotic appearance and proud look. It is important that - before it is too late - you understand that the AKITA IS NOT A BREED FOR EVERYONE. Many of us will find great features in Akitas, while for others, they will often have flaws that a given person would not be able to tolerate. People are different and have different requirements, and that is why over three hundred breeds have been created in the world. Maybe you will find the perfect companion for you in one of the other breeds. Or maybe a cat (of which there are many varieties) suits you better. Or maybe a talking frog, a wise rat or a fighting fish. Or maybe bonsai will become your passion, as exotic as the Akita, but still less demanding 😉


The Akita you see in the show ring is freshly bathed (or at least it should be) and fluffy. This perfect look can change dramatically after a few minutes of running freely through fields and meadows. It's true that after it dries, the mud will fall off and the dog won't look so messy... but before that happens, it will bring a lot of the mud onto our carpets or happily cuddle up to our favorite clothes.

So we should take into account that such a household member will encourage us to vacuum and wash more often. If you think that panels or tiles are easier to clean and you give up on carpets, you may change your mind after your first injury due to slipping on water splashed while drinking or when your pet slips and injures something during a joyful dance typical of Akitas ( if the injury is serious, you may have to take him for walks for a long time (and he weighs between 30-40 kg, so it won't be easy). Moreover, some Akitas (like most breeds) have a tendency to wallow in various "interesting" smells. a carcass will be like CHANEL5 to him and a stinking fish will be another equally exclusive brand of perfume. One of my babies was transported by car from a walk dressed in a large bag, and the owners almost fainted when bathing this miracle, so intense was this "wonderful" smell. It is worth noting that that dogs have a greater tendency to "naturally improve" their smell after a bath. During a walk, some Akitas can go into a pond to take a mud bath. In addition to the mud mask, they bring home a flock of ticks. And these, as we know, are often a source of infection, which, if not recognized and treated in time, can lead to the loss of our pet - especially Warsaw is a tick-infested region. Most of my little ones living there have already had bebesiosis (sometimes several times!). Not every tick is infected, but unfortunately there are more and more of them as our winters are getting milder. Therefore, after each walk, you should carefully examine your dog (pay particular attention to the places where the skin is the thinnest and which are warm - groins, armpits, ears, around the muzzle and eyes, and around the genitals). If we don't find the tick, it will drink and fall off on its own... how often people are surprised because they didn't notice any tick... and the dog dies of bebesiosis...


The Akita has always been a family dog, and although it used to hunt, guard the farmyard and even pull loads, it is mainly a friend and guardian of the family. Akita develops better among people. The upbringing of the Akita begins with the breeder and is continued by the new owner from the first day the little one stays at home. Every day of neglect in this respect is a wasted day that cannot be made up for. As a well-behaved dog, the Akita can even talk to a neighbor who says good morning. Akita, as the song says, wants to be "Always where you are". He is happiest sleeping under your bed or lying next to the desk of the person sitting at the computer. The closer the better. Therefore, it is a misconception to buy an Akita for a playpen. There are other breeds that are more suitable for this. And it's not about a lack of physical predispositions because Akitas have a rich undercoat and I know some that leave the house because it's too warm for them and sleep outside (often choosing snow instead of a cozy kennel). But we must remember that it is their choice and as soon as they miss us, they go to check what is happening at home. They are not doomed to forced isolation from their herd - which for them is the human family. The Akita will calmly endure waiting at home for you to return from work - provided that it is gradually accustomed to being alone at home from the time it is a puppy. It's a good idea to leave her something to do during this time (a cube, a toy, a kong filled with tasty stuffing, etc.) otherwise she may find something to do on her own (for example, new leather shoes, a carpet, a wardrobe corner or even a door). Akitas kept in pens near the house grow from unsocialized puppies into unhappy and semi-wild adult dogs. From here it is only a step to digging holes, destroying greenery or gazebos, escaping, biting other dogs or neighbors. If you don't want the company of a dog all the time, choose another breed - there are many breeds that do not need such close contact with humans. For some people, the ideal choice will be not a dog but a cat. Cats are loners and individualists, and what's more, they don't require going for a walk (although cats walking on harnesses are no longer a rare phenomenon).


It is essential for the Akita to follow the house rules - clearly shown to him from the first day in his new home. The Akita is a dog that is as intelligent as it is stubborn (as befits a Spitz), and it gets bored quickly. His upbringing requires commitment and knowledge of the breed's psyche. It must not be trained like a German Shepherd. We'd better not dream of an Akita walking loose, because it happens only occasionally. It is extremely rare for an Akita to ignore a tease from another dog, and even more often it will pick on another dog of its own gender (sometimes regardless of its gender). It is safer to give the Akita a lot of freedom of movement while maintaining full control over it (I recommend a branded automatic leash with a long tape and a strong mechanism and the so-called bridle collar). We have been raising the Akita from the first day of his stay in our home, continuing the work of his breeder. That's why you should avoid puppy mills because no one will take care of them. In such factories, puppies are supposed to be sold as quickly as possible and no one is interested in their future fate (no one asks what we are going to do with the puppy or where it will live) and therefore we will not be able to count on subsequent help and advice from such a pseudo-breeder. . If we postpone the raising of a delightful puppy "for later", we will be punished severely. Educational neglect in the early puppyhood period often cannot be repaired (just like the nervous system of a puppy from puppy mills that was damaged at the moment of birth). Basic obedience is mandatory. At a minimum, you need to teach your Akita the stop command - such a command can save his life (e.g. when he is about to run out into the street in front of an oncoming car). Once it stops, we can recall it. But the most important thing is the stop command (it is also useful at exhibitions). It is good to teach him to walk at your heel and not to pull on the leash. The usual shake of the paw is not only not necessary for anything, but is also often a nuisance. For example, we want to put a collar on the dog and it suddenly raises its paw and it's a bit disturbing 😉 You can try to teach it to ignore temptations such as a cat or a hare... but it's rather difficult 😉 The same applies to jumping on guests. You can teach it, but usually the guests are the ones who disturb it the most (because they stretch out their hands to the baby and the puppy learns that it's nice and there is a reward for it because he is petted. But when the puppy grows and weighs 40 kg, people suddenly stop caring about it). like it and the dog doesn't understand why they suddenly changed their mind 😉 You should teach your Akita to respect the rules at home, e.g. not climbing on the bed, not begging at the table, etc. How much you allow your dog depends on your preferences. It is important that you decide about what is allowed and what is not - always consistently! You can't feed him from your plate during a meal and then get angry at him for begging. If you don't know how to raise a dog, you can go to a course that lasts several weeks and then repeat the exercises at home. What the dog has learned should be refreshed from time to time, and repetitions can be incorporated into the daily routine. For example, tell the dog to sit before we put a collar on it or pour food into its bowl. Akitas are very intelligent and learn quickly. However, they get bored with repetition just as quickly. over and over again, so the upbringing of the Akita must be adapted to the specificity of the breed. A bored dog will not be a good student. Akitas learn very well using the encouragement method, i.e. rewarding for completed commands. However, this is best done at home. During a walk or at an exhibition, it sometimes happens that they are not interested in the prize at all. It should be remembered that if we have a good relationship with the little Akita and he fully accepts our leadership, all we need to do is continue to raise him consistently and the adult Akita will also recognize us as the leader of the pack. However, if we neglect his upbringing and he hides alone, he will create his own rules and try to impose his will on us, he will drag us on walks to wherever he wants to go, he will put up passive resistance, using all four paws just to avoid going where we don't want to go. he has the desire (and he has the strength, oh yes he has!), he will steal food from the table and jump on you when you come home, and he may even forbid your guests from entering the house... You cannot delegate the basics of education to someone else! You must not take your dog to a training facility because it will not change anything. He will then listen to the leader, but we will not be the leader, but the person training the dog - and he will not live in our house. After returning home, everything will start again. If we cannot raise an Akita, we need the advice of a good and experienced breeder or trainer who has experience with this breed. But this person has to train you and only then you will be able to raise your dog... You have to set the rules and demand compliance with them... but the rest of the family must also participate in this, demanding the same from the dog as you do. If you do not intend to raise your dog from a puppy, either choose another small and very docile breed... or better yet, give up having a dog at all. Often, tiny Yorkies or pinschers terrorize entire families...


Dogs do not believe in equality, so they live in a pack hierarchy. The leader is the leader (Alpha), who, although he is generally kind and calm, leaves no doubt to other dogs who makes the laws. It doesn't matter what breed of dog you have. If you are not the leader, he will be forced to be the leader instead of you. The consequences of this state of affairs will not last long... and in the case of Akitas, they can be really dangerous. You don't have to be a pesky servant, but you should exude calmness and self-confidence that won't let the dog doubt your role in the pack. It should be emphasized that female dogs are generally easier to train because they are less inclined to dominate. However, they should not be underestimated either. If they are not properly raised and their early socialization is neglected, there may also be serious problems. Once the Akita has taken over leadership, it will not give up without a fight... so you should never allow even the first warning signals (e.g. the dog growling at the owner). Raising an Akita starts from day one. The owner is the leader (Alpha). It is he who gives the dog food, determines when the dog eats, when it plays, etc. An Akita from a responsible breeder (from balanced parents), who knows the rules and to whom educational methods are consistently used, has no problem determining its position in the pack. We make such a dog aware every day that his place is after the youngest child in the family. There are simple ways to determine this and any good breeder will easily guide you through raising an Akita. We just have to want it, have the time and the right character for it. If we are unable to raise our children consistently, if they get into our heads and we allow them to do everything... DO NOT BUY AN AKITA under any circumstances! Someone who can't handle their own children won't be able to handle an Akita on the 100% either. If you can't be the leader of the herd, buy a cat. The cat goes its own way and does not need a leader. And hamsters don't need rules. Leadership and learning are related. If the dog doesn't recognize you as the boss, you won't be able to raise it. By raising your puppy wisely, you automatically put yourself in a leadership position and that is how your dog will perceive you.


The Akita is a very family dog. It is a dog that is very attached to its entire family, although it chooses one main leader. Each Akita manifests its devotion differently. Some are reserved and do not show their feelings effusively, others are more clingy, and still others are downright effusive (they will lick you from head to toe) 😉 However, all Akitas have one thing in common - they like to be close to their owner, preferably in the same room, next to your bed or under the desk… just as close to you as possible. Their face beams with joy when the owner turns to them, hugs and pets them. However, they are generally not persistent (although there are exceptions) in demanding our attention. Akita is sensitive to his master's moods, he is sad when he is sad and happy with him. Akita puppies are trustful, joyful and effusive in showing their feelings more than an adult dog, which is usually distrustful and reserved towards strangers.


The Akita's dense undercoat, which is shed regularly according to the seasons (and in the case of a female dog, also during heat), can fly all over the house. You can brush out the hair nets every day and the next day there will still be a new portion to brush out. Despite regular vacuuming, hair can be found literally everywhere, even in a bowl of soup. An Akita returning from a walk in the rain may bring large amounts of mud on its "undercarriage", which after drying will fall on carpets and may rub off on upholstered furniture and clothes. Therefore, it is a good idea to wipe your Akita after such a walk before entering the house. The first thing he will do after entering is to shake off not only the rainwater on his back but also the mud on his belly 😉 It will decorate our walls to a considerable height. You should accept the fact that having a dog at home means more work. There are hairless breeds or those that do not shed hair, such as Akitas (e.g. poodles). But there are also breeds that throw saliva on walls (the Akita doesn't do that) 😉


Although the Akita's fur does not require frequent combing, due to the fact that it has a thick undercoat, it should be carefully checked after a walk to see if it has caught any ticks. It is best to comb the dog standing on a light floor - any ticks that fall will be easy to spot and remove. Combing also helps to remove turnips, twigs and ears of grain and grass stuck in the coat. If they are not removed, skin irritation and wounds will occur. In summer, you should check the sensitive areas between the toes every day and remove any sharp grass heads stuck there. The standard Akita coat does not mat or mat. However, in the case of long-haired Akitas, regular brushing should be taken into account because this type of fur tends to become felted and matted. In the photos below, an example of a well-groomed and well-groomed Akita and a photo of a felted Akita (I used them with the permission of Akita in Not in Germany).
When the Akita is shedding, remember to regularly brush out the dead undercoat. Bathing your dog also speeds up hair replacement.


An adult Akita needs daily exercise. It's true that he's not a husky or a malamute, so he doesn't have to travel many kilometers every day, but the lack of regular exercise can make him unbearable. The right amount of exercise not only strengthens the heart and lungs, but also helps maintain good fitness and strong muscles. An Akita locked alone in the garden will not move. He needs motivation to exercise - even in the form of another dog. However, the best thing is the company of the owner with whom he can walk and play together. An adult Akita can also pull a sled (first empty, then with children). However, remember not to burden the puppy with excessive movement. The toddler MUST NOT run on a bike, pull a sled or take long walks. The puppy should go for frequent but short and easy walks. Short walks are also good for an adult dog that "needs to go" during hot weather, but it should be given a longer walk in the evening. All dogs need running and play to stay healthy. However, if the dog is left alone in the garden and the owner does not take care of it at all, you should not be surprised when you return to find the garden dug up as if after an attack by mutant moles ;-). If you don't have time to take care of a puppy, it's better to buy a cat. The cat will use the scratching post itself or play with a ball of yarn. The hamster will run on the carousel-wheel without our participation. Such animals will not need your precious time. Flowers in pots are even better, because they only need to be watered once in a while...


It doesn't matter where you live, no dog should be allowed outside or left unattended. Such carelessness of the owner is always ultimately paid for by dogs dying under the wheels of cars, shot by hunters, bitten by other dogs, given a poisoned delicacy by envious neighbors or a thief planning to break into our house. As a puppy, the Akita is trustful, so it can simply be stolen and sold at the nearest stock exchange. If you are planning to buy an Akita, plan walks together right away and you will save yourself and your dog a lot of stress. Moreover, it's nice to hear words of admiration from passers-by when the dog is not only beautiful but also clean, well-groomed and well-behaved. If you are not able to be a responsible owner of an Akita and you are not interested in what he does outside the house, do not buy an Akita or any other dog. Because if you are unable to devote time to your dog or you do not want to limit the animals' freedom, stop feeding the ducks in the park, because it will not take much of your time.


Akita is an expensive dog. Its purchase, although a large expense, is only the beginning of the costs that will have to be incurred to maintain this large dog for several years. The time devoted by a responsible breeder to the proper upbringing and upbringing of a puppy costs a lot. Apparent savings by purchasing a cheap puppy from a "pseudo-breeder-producer" is the worst thing that can happen to someone who dreams of a real Akita. It's like building a large, beautiful house on wet foundations of poor quality - even if we spend a fortune on it, it will not change the fact that such a building will quickly fall apart. Such a foundation for the Akita is provided by a responsible breeder who ensures the appropriate selection of a breeding pair (necessarily free from dysplasia and eye diseases!) from a healthy and good character line. The physical and mental condition of the mother bitch and the conditions in which she will live are equally important. Stress and malnutrition, which is often the fate of pregnant dogs in pseudo-breeding, affect the mental and physical health of her offspring. Often, the nervous system of unborn puppies is already damaged. A puppy from a malnourished female weakened by several births a year (because for a pseudo-breeder it's quantity, not quality, that counts) is a "goldmine" for a veterinarian. And the lack of early socialization of a toddler makes his upbringing extremely difficult. In addition, it often turns out that such a puppy from a pseudo-breeder does not even resemble an Akita when it grows up... A cheap puppy, due to the pseudo-breeder's lack of training to use the designated toilet area (e.g. with newspapers), will pee wherever it can, preferably on carpets. And since I am in quarantine until the vaccinations are completed and I am not supposed to go outside, the floors will be in a terrible condition and the carpets will only be suitable for throwing away. Unfortunately, not everyone has their own garden where other dogs or wild cats do not roam... The initial purchase costs soon include other costs: vaccinations, deworming, protection against fleas and ticks (ticks are a mortal threat to dogs!), registration of the dog in the Kennel Club and the fee dog tax. However, the biggest fixed cost is the maintenance of this dog. The Akita, as a large dog, requires a lot of food and good quality food (it does not tolerate cheap food with cheap soy protein instead of animal protein). Especially during the growth period, it requires appropriate food and nutritional supplements to grow into a healthy, strong dog. If something is missing during this period, we will never be able to fix it. It must be remembered that a puppy grows practically "before your eyes" and even a seemingly short-term deficiency of one of the important components of its diet (even a short saving on the part of the owner in the form of purchasing just one bag of cheap food) can sometimes cause irreversible damage. Not only will the Akita require a lot of food, but the vet bills will also be higher than in the case of a smaller dog (because we pay for medicines administered according to the dog's body weight). We will pay more for a large stand with bowls, a large bed, and a large tube of branded dog shampoo will only be enough for one use (a cheap shampoo will cause dandruff or even allergies in Akita dogs). If we do not have our own car, we will also pay for transporting the dog (taxis have an additional charge for transporting a dog, and if it is a large Akita, we may have to order a station wagon and the surcharge will increase even more). If we do not have a station wagon, it will be necessary to purchase a large transport mat that will protect the car seats. It would be good if our Akita puppy visited a dog kindergarten and then trained as a companion dog (of course only in good dog schools with experience in training Spitz dogs). This is especially advisable when we have no idea how to raise a dog.


The Akita is an ideal guardian and defender of the family, but only if it is properly trained. However, training an Akita as a typical guard dog in the literal sense of the word is pointless. Asking a dog to catch a helper who pretends to be dangerous with his protective sleeve - while the Akita feels with every sense that all this hostility is fake - is simply making the dog look like an idiot... Such a dog may later attack a strangely dressed or stiffly walking passer-by because after all We told him to bite someone like that. In short, there is no point in teaching an Akita to pretend defense. In the event of a real threat, a self-confident and mentally balanced dog, strongly attached to its master, should defend him. Moreover, the very posture and appearance of the Akita commands respect from those around it, and in the dozen or so years of my experience with this breed, I have never met a person who would ignore it. Training your Akita to bite people is not a smart idea. Its appearance alone is enough to keep people in our vicinity at a distance. The Akita will only decide to intervene in our defense when the threat is real, and then it will do it extremely quickly, silently and effectively (after all, its ancestors dealt with bears). However, if someone with low self-esteem decides to buy an Akita and, out of pride or stupidity, decides to set it on someone who is not a threat, he or she will only make a fool of himself, because this proud dog will pretend that he does not understand what the owner is talking about.


Don't make your Akita a surprise gift for anyone! Such unwanted gifts are often given away right after a party or holiday, or at the latest when they grow and stop being a fluffy ball. A toddler who has grown into a large dog in just a few months needs more and more space and time, which is not available for him. Dogs are often abandoned before going on vacation or vacation (even planned ones, let alone unwanted gifts). People who buy an Akita solely to satisfy their exhibition ambitions often get rid of it when it does not grow into the champion they dream of. A common reason for giving up a dog is the inability to cope with the dominant nature of an Akita that was not raised properly from a puppy. Each of these reasons, however, is solely the fault of the person who was not forced to buy a puppy. Regardless of the reasons for giving up a dog, it always suffers the same, because the Akita is a very family breed, extremely attached to its owners (especially when it is the only dog in the house, because then the person is its "pack") and the loss of its home may even cost its life. The only salvation for such a dog is a new home, where someone patient and caring will help it trust humans again. Before someone who owns an Akita decides to get rid of the dog, they should look for a good trainer or behaviorist (depending on what problems the dog causes). Generally, it is enough to have constant contact with the breeder and follow his advice instead of listening to the advice of other dog owners or veterinarians, who often have no idea about the Akita breed or uncritically repeat the views they have heard from other people. If the problem is the lack of exhibition successes and you have the conditions for it, try to buy a second dog based on your previous experience. If you are unable to provide a home for two dogs, stay with the one that is already in your home and wait, get to know the breed better, research its breeding lines, assess the chances and threats of purchasing a puppy from your dream breeder and plan a far-sighted plan to buy another Akita. in the future. Akitas generally live for about 13 years. If you think it's too long for you, don't buy an Akita! Since most breeds live for several years and that is too long for you - do not buy ANY dog.


If, despite the numerous disadvantages of the breed mentioned here, you are still amazed by its undoubted advantages - BUY AKITA!
This is the wonderful dog you have always dreamed of... provided your choice is wise and well-thought-out. If you care about this new member of your family, buy a puppy only from a reliable breeder who cares about his Akitas. Only such a breeder will always provide you with advice and help. If you have the puppy's best interests at heart, do not give up on the experience of its breeder and do not be self-righteous and convinced that YOU know everything best. Generally, the smartest people are people who have had only one Akita in their entire life or even know them only by sight... Meanwhile, even a very good and experienced breeder of this breed with many years of experience learns every day from his dogs, which make him more and more happy. new surprises. If the Akita is your first dog, don't start your life together with trial and error when someone experienced can help you bypass most of them. A wise and caring guardian of an Akita will deserve his boundless affection and love - a love so great that it will more than compensate for all the breed's shortcomings.
Izyda Bach-Żelewska ("Akita u Izis" FCI)

How to choose a puppy correctly

  1. Do we really want to have a dog?
    If someone is planning to buy a puppy, they must first make sure they really want and are able to have a dog. Ill-considered decisions made on impulse are often wrong. When, at your child's insistence, you buy a puppy that is so cute. At this point, we often don't think about the fact that this is an obligation for at least a dozen years of the dog's life. A dog that was not our dream, but only a child's whim, will effectively poison our life when he grows up, and it will not be easy for him to be with us, because we didn't really want him, and our child can get bored just as easily as other toys. Often, such dogs bought on impulse end up in shelters when the holidays arrive, increasing the already huge number of strays, or worse, they are left to die tied to a tree in the forest - and their fate gives a new dimension to the word "attachment". Therefore, purchasing a dog should be carefully considered. Both our quality of life and the well-being of the puppy will depend on the accuracy of this decision. 
  2. Is anyone in your household allergic to fur?
    If someone in the household suffers from allergies, it would be a good idea to test them for allergies to dog hair in advance, rather than later exposing the child to the stress of having to give up the dog and the unnecessary stress of the little four-legged dog causing confusion. Sometimes people who are not allergic to the fur of an adult Akita are allergic to the so-called puppy fluff. Unfortunately, it happens that over time this allergy may also spread to the fur of adult dogs. A solution for allergic people is to buy another breed, i.e. a Chinese Crested Dog, because this dog is often chosen by allergy sufferers.
  3. Is this breed for us and we for it?
    If we are sure that we dream of a dog of this breed, let's ask ourselves whether we can cope with it. This is a dog that requires relatively a lot of exercise. It's true that he doesn't have to run every day, and from time to time he can survive a day without a long walk without biting our furniture and howling pitifully - as most huskies and malamutes do when they haven't had enough exercise. However, he has a great predisposition to running. The Akita, unlike huskies and malamutes - with which it is often mistakenly identified - is a territorial dog. He will not only stick to his territory, but is also able to effectively guard it against strangers and defend his land and his herd - that is, us - to the end. This is a dog that does not give up. Just as he is faithful to the end, he fights until the end, but he must know that the area or herd he is supposed to take care of is his. It is not suitable for guarding the property alone. If he doesn't feel connected to anyone there, he will simply run away instead of guarding at the first opportunity. The Akita is a family dog and must be treated as such. He cannot be isolated from people, because he loves them and only feels happy when they are around them. However, it is a dog with a dominant character and if we were not able to consistently raise our child so that it would not get on our heads, then the Akita will also be too much of a challenge for us. Sometimes it is better to verify your dreams about the breed or at least compromise and choose a female dog that is generally much easier to breed (because exceptions only prove the rule) and additionally ask the breeder to choose the least dominant one for us. Even a spoiled female dog should not generally be dangerous, at most she may be a bit moody and unbearable. Let's only buy an Akita with a birth certificate, of proven origin, and let's try to buy it from tested parents.
  4. What gender should our puppy be?
    If we have already decided on a specific breed, we still need to choose the sex of the puppy. And this is an equally important matter. In general (although there are exceptions as with everything), female dogs are less dominant and easier to train. They are more friendly than dogs and are more protective of the owner and the house. Dogs, on the other hand, are more independent and their appearance is generally more impressive than female dogs of the same breed. The disadvantage of having a female dog is the need to keep an eye on her during heat, which means not letting her off the leash during a walk and not leaving her unattended, even in your own garden, because males' creativity is almost unlimited during this period. However, if we do not plan to breed her and we do not feel able to keep an eye on her twice a year, the best solution is to sterilize the bitch just before her first or at the latest before her second heat. This reduces both the risk of pyometra and breast cancer. However, it should be remembered that this treatment is irreversible, so you cannot decide on it hastily. A female dog is also a better solution for someone who is in love with his bushes in the garden, which the dog will undoubtedly destroy by constantly marking his territory on them. You have to keep an eye on the dog practically all year round, because there is always a female dog somewhere in the area that may be in heat and then, when called for blood, it may unfortunately not respond to our commands to return. The owner of the bitch has every right to protect her against unwanted mating by our dog and it may end with an unpleasant adventure for our pet... which careless dog owners often do not remember. Moreover, a dog running after such a scent may get blinded and hit by a car. If we already have one dog at home, especially in the case of dominant breeds, a good solution is to get a puppy of the opposite sex - remembering, however, that we must be able to separate them during heat. I definitely do not recommend keeping two males in one house, and I also advise you to think carefully about keeping two female dogs and choose them at least so that they are not both dominant, as this will lead to a fight, especially since females bite each other more severely than dogs and on In general, their mutual injuries are much more serious.
  5. How to find a good breeding farm?
    Once we have decided what gender of the puppy we are buying, the next step is to find a good breeder (preferably a home breeder), i.e. people who have been passionate about one breed (or two or three) for a long time. Do not buy dogs from kennels where breeds change depending on fashion. One year they have Labrador retrievers or golden retrievers, then beagles or some other fashionable breed. In the following years, when the market is saturated with dogs of a given breed and there is no market for them, suddenly the breeding profile completely changes to an extremely different but currently fashionable breed with little competition on the market. In such a breeding it is difficult to expect any focus on mentally and physically healthy and beautiful dogs, if only because before such a breeder knows what lines in a given breed are burdened with something and which ones are better to avoid and which ones are worth introducing into the breeding ... he already has a different breed and is learning again. Assuming that he has such an intention and wants to improve what he does and not just produce puppies, breed them quickly and sell them just as quickly - often without even caring where and who buys such a dog. Nowadays, most reputable breeders already have their own websites and on them you can usually see not only photos of cute puppies (you should be very careful when it comes to those with only such content) but also photos of their parents and pedigrees (often with photos of ancestors). ), characteristics and history of the breed, standard, as well as information about the dog being tested for dysplasia or eye diseases. And you should not think that if the puppy has a birth certificate, it means that the parents were healthy, because in the Akita breed there is no obligation to carry out any tests, even tests for dysplasia. It is really worth making the effort and looking for a breeding farm that - even though there are no regulatory requirements - tests its dogs to minimize the risk of unpleasant surprises in the puppies. From the photos of its parents and ancestors, you can get an approximate idea of what your chosen puppy will look like in the future. However, once there, I advise you to meet the dog's parents personally to see what their character is, because this is the character that our chosen puppy may inherit. Unfortunately, it is generally not possible to meet the father in person if the breeder traveled with the bitch for mating across half of Poland or to another country. However, the breeder's reluctance to show the puppies' mother should be highly suspicious. In such a case, I would advise against purchasing a puppy from this breeder. I am surprised by breeders who offer to deliver the puppy to the buyer's home. First of all, we do not have the opportunity to find out in what conditions he was born and spent the first weeks of his life, we often do not see the baby's mother or siblings, such a breeder usually has something to hide... But a puppy is not a sofa that we buy with delivery. to home. Personally, I would not sell a puppy to someone who did not find the time or willingness to come pick it up, because such a potential owner has a bad prospect of being a responsible dog owner.
  6. Is it a show one or a couch potato one?
    If we already know what breed and gender we want to have and we have already chosen the breeder our puppy will come from, we should also consider whether we want to show this dog in the future. If we do not intend to show our Akita in the future at 100%, we can sometimes buy a puppy that has a minor exhibition defect: a malocclusion, a color defect, long hair, or is simply not a specimen that the breeder would like to see at exhibitions. Such a dog also has proven origin, which is guaranteed by the birth certificate (I do not recommend purchasing it without a birth certificate, as it is a so-called high-risk purchase), but it is generally cheaper. The breeder then notes in the notes section in the certificate that the dog is not a show dog and we have no right to appear at the exhibition with such a dog. However, if we do not rule out exhibitions in the future, it is better to buy a dog with exhibition potential so as not to put an end to his exhibition career. It is best to register for a puppy at a previously selected breeder. Sometimes it's even worth waiting a while. The golden rule also applies here: "whatever happens suddenly" and "fast unfortunately does not match quality". You can recognize good breeding farms by the fact that you usually don't get a puppy right away, but only after signing up for the list and paying a deposit. It is good to know the standard of the breed you are buying and pay attention to whether the puppy meets it (the figure below shows the structure of a model adult Akita). A good breeder, knowing that we are planning exhibitions, will try to show us which dog he thinks has the best promise in this respect. After all, it is about the reputation of the breeding farm and it would not be in his interest if his nickname in the rings was represented by an average dog, while the most beautiful of the litter will spend his life on the proverbial couch.
  7. The puppy's personality?
    When the puppies are ready and we have just come to choose our dog, we should pay attention to the puppy's character. If we are consistent, we can take an equally mentally strong puppy. However, if we do not necessarily know how to enforce our rights, it is better to get a puppy that is as amicable as possible. When choosing a puppy from a litter, there are appropriate tests available, but I personally advise you to ask the breeder, because he is the one who observes the puppies from the moment of birth and is best able to determine which of them is the most agreeable and which of them is difficult to subordinate.
  8. What a puppy should look like:
    When picking up a puppy, you should pay attention to both the conditions in the breeding farm and the health condition of the bitch - the mother of the puppies. It is worth checking the litter inspection report - which the breeder will make available to us upon request - to see if the dog with the tattoo of our choice contains a description of any defect. Akitas come in the following colors: red-fawn, sesame (red-fawn hair with black tips), brindle, and white. All colors except white must have whitish color on the sides of the muzzle, on the cheeks, on the underside of the jaw, neck, breast, body and tail, and on the inside of the fore and hind legs. Only white dogs are allowed to have a flesh-colored nose, although a black nose is desirable - but extremely rare - and other colors must have it. Colored spots on white are unacceptable, as is long hair. Another mistake is the white spots that appear on the back of red-fawn Akitas. What is also undesirable, and unfortunately quite common in Poland, is the occurrence of the so-called white collars that optically separate the head from the dog's body. It is worth checking the dog's health booklet whether it has been dewormed, how many times and what vaccinations it has already had. Depending on the age of the dog, we will be responsible for both further deworming and ensuring that it receives another vaccine in a timely manner. However, he should have already had his first vaccination and 2-3 dewormings. You also need to pay attention to whether the puppies are well-groomed and clean, and whether they have a soft belly, because the belly should not be hard and swollen. They should not have any discharge from the eyes or ears, or skin problems. Properly raised puppies should not be afraid of people or people reaching out to them, they should be playful and joyful. They should move confidently and even jump. A lethargic puppy, sitting in a corner and taking part in play, is probably not a healthy puppy - perhaps it has problems with movement (dysplasia) or is sick. If we are planning an exhibition, we should check the puppy's angulation, i.e. the position of the limb bones at the appropriate angle in relation to each other and to the horizontal. In addition to good angulation, it is also very important that the front and back are balanced, i.e. that the angulation of the corresponding parts is the same. The ideal proportions of an adult dog are shown in the figure of the Akita in point 6. The bite should be checked - only the Akita's scissors bite is the correct bite. The complete teeth should be checked depending on the age of the puppy. Primary incisor teeth (sharp) emerge between 1 and 2 months of age and are: pincers, medium-sized teeth, edges and canines. After the 2nd month of life, the incisors become separated due to the expansion of the intermaxillary bone and the lower jaw. At the age of 2-4 months, primary teeth begin to wear down. The change of pincers, medium and edges occurs in the 4th-5th month after birth, while the change of canines occurs in the 6th month of life. In dogs, the testicles should be checked. In Akitas, cryptorchidism is very rare, but the testicles in a puppy are very small and difficult to feel among the dense puppy down. Often, at the age when we pick up the puppy, the testicles may not yet be felt or may only be found in the ducts. Then you have to remember and watch over it and check whether it has gone away on an ongoing basis. Neglects cannot be repaired later, and the testicle that has not descended into the scrotum must be surgically removed from the abdominal cavity, as leaving it there is dangerous for the dog. Unfortunately, the absence of even one testicle in the scrotum is a defect that disqualifies the dog from exhibitions in any breed, because cryptorchidism is hereditary. Man is not always human. People often don't wonder why they can sometimes buy "almost purebred" (non-pedigree) puppies for a suspiciously low price. Stories of pseudo-breeders selling puppies from "pedigree parents who didn't want to bother them with exhibitions" or "6th from the litter, so no birth certificate" very quickly turn out to be a fairy tale for several hundred zlotys, or rather a nightmare when it turns out that the price then you have to add the cost of treating the puppy (often without visible results) and the cost of buying another one (when it was not possible to save it)... this time as a "wise Pole after the damage"... with a pedigree and from a good ethical breeding farm. But isn't it better to learn from the mistakes of others? I don't wish anyone to learn from their own... and I only feel sorry for dogs... because they are not Chinese imitations of branded Adidas sneakers, but living and sentient creatures that cannot be thrown into the trash when it turns out that we have bought a dog's misfortune. Please look at what puppy factories - puppymills - really look like, which then sell their puppies in stores, on the market, wherever they can - often directly from the car like potatoes or even delivered to your phone. And although this is the English version, the photos are too eloquent. Please visit the above-mentioned website before you prepare a similar fate for the next generations of puppy mills - because "demand makes supply", so by buying a puppy from such a factory, we ensure that this cruel practice will never end and we become as guilty as the puppy manufacturer. There are too many reasons why you should buy a pedigree dog to mention them in this short article. Those interested in the topic are referred to authoritative sources.

Izyda Bach-Żelewska

Before you buy... price

According to the Regulations on the Breeding of Purebred Dogs of the Kennel Club in Poland, since 1992, all purebred puppies (the entire litter) have the right to a pedigree! Only purchasing a puppy with a birth certificate (hologram, chip number consistent with the puppy's chip) guarantees having a purebred dog! – (the certificate itself costs PLN 40.) Based on the certificate, the Polish Kennel Club issues a pedigree to the owner (the cost of the pedigree itself is PLN 60). As you can see, the cost of obtaining a birth certificate or pedigree is not high. So please do not believe the assurances that the puppy is cheaper because it does not have a birth certificate. If it was only about that, it might be cheaper, but by... PLN 40. Because it is not the metrics that determine the quality of the puppy - it only confirms it. We are really paying not for a piece of paper, but for a properly selected mating from healthy and tested lines. The real reason for selling Akitas - after pedigree parents - are usually the parents' defects that prevent them from obtaining breeding licenses and, therefore, prevent them from having healthy and mentally balanced offspring. Please do not count on subsequent help in determining the proper diet, upbringing or other problems with the dog you bought "at a bargain". This will only be your problem. And please don't count on me in this matter either, as I don't have time to give advice to owners of paperless "almost Akitas" purchased somewhere at a stock exchange or before an exhibition. As we know from TV, "almost" makes a huge difference - and in this case, not only in the appearance of the dog, which almost resembles an Akita, but more importantly, it is often the difference between a healthy and a sick dog, between a balanced and mentally unstable dog. The sale of puppies before exhibitions and at stock exchanges is prohibited by the Polish Kennel Club - because this is the surest way to buy a sick animal (even if the seller brought it there healthy!). The incubation period of the disease is up to two weeks, which is also the time when we most often lose such a puppy. If you buy a puppy with a birth certificate, please ask the breeder who sold you the dog for advice. That is why it is so important to maintain contact with the breeder. If the breeder selling you the puppy is not interested in where the little one is going and what awaits him in his new home, you should not count too much on his help later. Paradoxically, when asked how to feed a puppy, such breeders will often answer that they should give Eukanuba and that's all there is to it. One magical sentence. It makes little sense and has little to do with the truth. If you hear such an opinion from a breeder, you'd better not buy such a puppy... Because, first of all, most of these puppies have never had such expensive food in their mouths. If this were the case, the price of the puppy would not be so "bargain". So even if the new owner buys this recommended miracle, the babies react with diarrhea to completely unfamiliar food. Moreover, even good quality food is not everything a puppy needs! And if the breeder cannot tell what to give the puppy to eat, how did he know what the puppies in his breeding farm should be given or even how to feed the pregnant bitch? Often, nutritional deficiencies in a pregnant dog cause damage to the nervous system of the fetus, something that cannot be repaired - and unfortunately, in the case of a small sweet ball, it is not immediately noticeable. After collecting the payment for the dog, he will probably forget that he saw you. Well, quality and "warranty service" cost money 😉 So a puppy (even with a birth certificate) from whose breeder we cannot expect any advice in the future may actually be cheaper. The only question is whether you can afford such a cheap purchase and then face endless health and mental problems and equally expensive and ineffective visits to vets, trainers, etc. The breeder should inform the buyer of the puppy about what food he has recently eaten, in the case of dry food it is advisable is for the breeder to provide a sample of this food, in an amount sufficient for the first days of the puppy's adaptation to the new environment. The breeder should inform the buyer about the necessary vaccinations that the puppy must undergo at the buyer's place, and about the recommended dates of these vaccinations, as well as the so-called post-vaccination quarantine. Before buying a puppy, the buyer should be informed about the predispositions of the breed (that it requires strict consistency in upbringing) and about the need to enroll a puppy aged 4 months and up (this depends on the mental maturity of the dog) for a dog kindergarten and later a companion dog course. At the same time, it is not allowed to enroll an Akita for defense training! The Akita is a wonderful dog and worth recommending, but... unfortunately it is not for everyone. In case of any future problems with the purchased puppy, the breeder should always provide him with professional advice and, if possible, help. The average price of a puppy in Poland is approximately PLN 5,500-11,000. (the price of a pedigree long-haired puppy is PLN 4,500 - more about them in the long-haired Akita section). We will pay over PLN 5,000 for puppies from tested parents (free from dysplasia and eye diseases) from good lines, and the so-called "promotions" or "mass production" can be purchased for about PLN 1,500-2,000... but I would rather advise against such a risky purchase, as well as the purchase of the so-called Akita. pedigree (i.e. simply without pedigree). Why? Please read "Leia's story". You will see for yourself. Breeding pedigree or even pedigree Akitas from untested parents leads to various health problems and is highly harmful to the breed - not only dogs consciously condemned by breeders to genetic diseases suffer, but also their owners who, when buying a pedigree Akita, believed that the parents had been tested. Unfortunately, in our country there is no obligation to carry out any tests. The lack of these tests is often due to the laziness of breeders, but unfortunately the reason is often the fear that such a test will reveal that the dog or female dog is not suitable for breeding. The price of the tests cannot be an explanation, as an annual eye examination costs PLN 200, and a one-time lifetime examination for dysplasia, depending on the number of photos (whether only the hips are examined or also the elbows are examined), costs approximately PLN 600. . Therefore, considering that testing the parents of potential puppies (and breeding only those free from dysplasia and eye diseases) will minimize the risk of these diseases in their offspring, and the expense is no greater than the cost of several exhibitions, abandoning these tests seems to be highly irresponsible. In such a situation, how can we expect such breeders to have in-depth knowledge about a specific line and its genetic problems when they are not willing to even test their own dogs? For price comparison, the average price of an Akita puppy: in Germany the average is about 1,300 EU, in Italy 1,500-2,000 USD, importing a puppy from Japan costs about 400,000 Yen, (Japanese breeders speak only Japanese and respond in "bushes"... so without a translator), but for a good puppy it is much more, for a young dog it is again correspondingly more and the price of an adult, titled breeding dog in between is a completely different story. Before being handed over, the puppies must be: dewormed, vaccinated (this is confirmed by an appropriate entry and a veterinarian's stamp in the health booklet - issued to the buyer along with the puppy), microchipped (not earlier than at the age of 6-7 weeks) - no later than on the day of the litter inspection. They must already have a birth certificate! It is not advisable to pick up puppies before they are 7-8 weeks old, because until then they should be with their mother and siblings and learn proper behavior among dogs (but only in home breeding farms where, in addition to contact with mother and siblings, the puppy has constant good contact with humans ). From the breeding of the so-called kennel breeding, it is better to get a puppy (if someone decides to breed it) as early as possible. There, no one usually has time to socialize the puppy with people. Mass rearing of several litters (often of different breeds) at the same time does not bode well for the puppy's psyche. Besides, no one there wants to take care of the baby. It has been inspected, it has a certificate, let it be sold quickly to anyone and anywhere, as long as there is money. This is the motto of most such multipliers. If there are any notable exceptions, kudos to them... Important: Before buying, please visit as many Akita farms as possible. You should also inspect the parents of the selected puppy (especially the dog, which is usually not on site) and check their temperament for aggression. Let's not buy a cat in a bag... If the attempt is unsuccessful, even if the puppy is beautiful and its parents are super titled... it's better to look elsewhere. Aggression is hereditary! You should also check the pedigrees of both dogs to see if they are too closely related. Let's avoid close inbreeding (siblings, parents with their puppy, etc.)

Akita: positive features of the breed

The following six positive traits have been rated in terms of their severity in Akitas:

  • It is reluctant to move away from its owner and prefers to stay in a relatively small territory (a dog with a high level of this trait will rather guard its owner);
    The feature occurs to a high degree
  • Territorial defense instinct - breeds that alarm immediately when they notice something unusual and like to bark at intruders;
    The feature occurs to a high degree
  • Lack of tendency to destroy objects - breeds showing this feature are unlikely to chew furniture or carpets to a large extent (assuming, of course, that they are provided with the appropriate amount of exercise and activity - without this, each dog will look for something to do, not necessarily desirable from our point of view );
    The feature occurs to a high degree
  • Quiet breeds, not in the habit of barking at anything;
    The feature occurs to a high degree
  • Breeds that can be trusted with children do not require constant supervision around them (of course, remember that very often a child plus a dog means trouble, so you should adopt the general rule of limited trust, not leaving them unattended - especially small children);
    The feature occurs to an average degree
  • Dog-friendly breeds tend not to show aggression or dominance towards them (a dog with a low intensity of this feature may show dominant-aggressive tendencies).
    The feature occurs to an average degree

Of course, the table below should be treated as indicative. General racial predispositions are given here. It is necessary to take into account the individual nature of each animal. Breeding purebred dogs aims to achieve an ideal, both in terms of appearance and character, and this list is based on this ideal. If you are looking for a suitable dog for yourself and you want it to be a typical representative of the Akita breed, you should contact reputable, good breeders. Breeders who care about the good name of their breeding farm and the good of the breed make sure that the appearance and behavior of the puppies conform to the standard. Try to get to know the parents of your future pet, including the father's character, which we usually do not have the opportunity to see when purchasing a puppy. Unfortunately, in our country, there is not enough emphasis on the dog's psyche. Therefore, it is worth making the effort to get to know the dog after which we are going to buy a puppy. Let's check, for example, whether it is possible to pet the dog at the exhibition, of course by first asking for the owner's permission.

Akita's character:

Akita is a great individualist - like Spitz dogs, and also very self-confident, stubborn and domineering. Provided he has been properly guided since early puppyhood, he is gentle and extremely lovable to the handler and his family. He is distrustful and incorruptible towards strangers, reserved and slow to make close acquaintances - which makes him an ideal guardian. However, it should not be deprived of contact with humans, because it will simply become wild and may become dangerous. He is not noisy, he barks very rarely and then it is really worth checking what is bothering him. Strangers let in by the owner will be observed by the Akita, without becoming familiar with them, ready to attack in the moment of danger. No one should enter the house before being personally let in by the owner... the Akita simply won't allow it... and it doesn't matter if it's our closest neighbor or friend... it's better not to try. Although he is a balanced dog when unprovoked and does not show too violent reactions, in a fight he is ruthless and unrestrained. If not properly handled, the Akita can - and it has every predisposition to do so - dominate its owner. Therefore, obedience training should begin during puppyhood, because Akitas are dominant dogs. Let's throw away spike strips and clamping chains that hurt the dog and destroy its beautiful fur. Let's buy him a "bridle collar" that will make driving easier (usually size P2 for a dog - it is already produced in Poland by a company from Gdynia). The dog will quickly get used to this novelty, which gives us full control over it without causing it unnecessary pain. And if we sometimes have to put a muzzle on him, let it be a light plastic one (usually size 10 is suitable for dogs). Personally, I highly recommend reading John Fisher's books "Through a Dog's Eye" and "Why My Dog" as well as both books by Jan Fennell (described in the publications section). They will help us understand how to deal with a dog, without beating and other outdated methods that, unfortunately, are still recommended by most breeders. Meanwhile, it is enough to simply understand the psyche of the wolf's offspring and consistently use its knowledge to establish one's leading position in the "pack". Otherwise, he will dominate us. In addition, once a dominant has gained a position, he will try to maintain it by all means, which can be very dangerous for anyone who wants to deprive him of this position. Therefore, the Akita is not suitable for older people, physically weak people, or people who are too domineering, submissive or nervous.


CAMPBELLA tests are intended for puppies in general, but it should be remembered that the Akita is a unique dog and these tests, like human character tests, cannot be treated as 100% verifiable. They are only tips to help you learn the dog's character early on. I do not recommend buying puppies from large breeders where they have very little contact with people. You may have difficulties with their subsequent socialization. Puppies running away at the sight of us and squealing in fear when we pick them up do not bode well... Therefore, we should not buy puppies with the so-called "factories". Let's not create a "sales market" for people who have nothing to do with love for animals, for whom our pets are just a commodity (and they do not handle them with the greatest care).
We test the puppy before it is seven weeks old. Then instinct still dominates, and the person has not had time to influence his character. We carry out the test in a place that is unfamiliar to the puppy, where it cannot hear its siblings.
Trial I
We put the dog on the floor, move a few meters away and crouch opposite. We stroke it calmly and observe the reaction:
the puppy walks towards us with its tail raised, jumps and tries to bite our fingers. We note (A), he will accept us very easily.
approaches without hesitation, tail raised (B); he trusts us and is ready to follow us.
approaches with its tail down (C) distrust and lack of independence.
approaching with hesitation (D) tendency towards independence.
stays in place (E); huge independence.
Attempt II
You should stand up and walk calmly away from the puppy with normal steps:
the dog runs after us with its tail raised, tries to bite our shoes (A); he agrees that we should become his master immediately.
calmly follows us (B); he trusts us and is ready to accept us.
moves, but not very willingly (C); a certain reserve in the willingness to get involved.
follows hesitantly, tail down (D); high independence, upbringing will be difficult.
stays where it is or goes in another direction (E); clearly emphasizes their independence, upbringing can cause problems. In the latter case, the attempt should be repeated, perhaps the puppy did not notice the departure, if the behavior is identical, you should be prepared for a long and difficult education.
Trial III
We place the puppy on its back with its paws up and lightly press its chest:
defends itself strongly and tries to bite (A); we are dealing with a dominant creature that may cause problems.
squirms, trying to free himself from the hand (B); This person with character requires a determined man.
tries to break free and then gives in (C); you will have to be careful.
he doesn't object and starts licking his hand (D); you can rest assured that your further education will be easy.
Attempt IV
The dog lies on its tummy and should be scratched caressingly on its head and at the end of its tail. This test allows you to determine the degree of obedience:
the puppy tries to bite, is dissatisfied (A); will be difficult to educate and prone to running away.
growls, tries to kick him away with his paw (B); you will have to forcefully impose your opinion.
initially defends himself and later starts licking his hand (C); quite independent character.
turns onto his back and licks his hand (D); will accept your domination.
does not respond (E); very easy to raise.
Trial V
Clasp your hands and lift the dog so that its belly rests on your hands and its paws hang in the air without support for thirty seconds:
the puppy defends itself by biting and growling fiercely (A); difficulties can be expected.
defends itself quite strongly (B); it will take a lot of decisiveness.
tries to free himself without showing aggression (C); minor trust issues may arise during teaching.
does not defend himself at all (D); a wonderful character only wants to love you.
If they predominate (A):
A difficult individual, with a tendency to dominate. It requires a very firm owner and is not recommended for people who have younger children or people in the prime of their lives.
Two or three (A) and the rest (B):
the puppy is also not recommended in homes with small children and elderly people. However, if trained by a master who can impose his opinion on him, he can be an excellent yard dog.
Definitely dominates (B):
tendencies to dominate, after good training such dogs can be obedient. However, you should avoid combining them with small children.
Predominant ( C):
The puppy will adapt well to various situations and families (with small children and elderly people).
Two or three (D) and one or more (E):
A submissive individual, which does not mean a perfect dog, but rather an apathetic fun lover. He will probably constantly demand caresses and compliments, ideal for lonely people.
Predominant (D) and (E): The puppy will not be easy in "social" education. It takes a lot of work. Additionally, if the dog scores (A) and (B), you have to take into account aggressiveness; if they score (C) or (D), aggressiveness may turn into fear.

How to prevent aggression in your Akita:

Knowing the early stages of a dog's development helps to understand dog aggression. The critical socialization period for a puppy extends from three weeks of age, when it begins to see and hear, until 14 weeks of age. The best time to buy a puppy so that it can properly socialize in its new home is between the seventh and eighth week of age. The 8-10th week is the period of instilling fear, when the puppy should not be scolded, but treated very gently. The fourteenth week begins the "teenage" stage - i.e. the age of adolescence - which ends when the baby reaches sexual maturity, usually around 14-15 months. If a puppy has not been socialized by 14 weeks of age, it will be difficult for him to trust in a strange environment. Puppies raised in a kennel where they have very little contact with people will be more timid than others (especially in stressful conditions), especially if they are not sold before 14 weeks. But sometimes human love and patience simply work wonders... Dogs reach sexual maturity at the age of 6 to 14 months. During this period, they usually begin to bark at strangers and become possessive, and male dogs begin to lift their paws when peeing. Getting to know strangers (adults, children, and other dogs) in the home is also very important during this period, especially if the puppy had few such contacts in its earlier development. Aggressiveness is influenced by genetic and hereditary factors. From dogs of protective breeds - such as, among others, Akita is expected to be more aggressive than other breeds. Improper "inbreeding" (cross-breeding), even from a titled individual, but with an untested psyche, may lead to instability in its descendants, and hormones may also fuel a tendency to aggression in unneutered males, females in heat or false pregnancy, and during feeding. young. Among the environmental conditions, it is worth mentioning: living conditions, including lack of sufficient exercise, confinement indoors (which is a total misunderstanding), insufficient socialization, excessive punishment of the dog (not to mention abuse), previous attack or intimidation by another aggressive dog, being spoiled by owners, isolated from contact with people, or often irritated by children or irritated by people jogging. Dogs' pack hierarchy determines their social position, and they establish and maintain it through body language. Dogs occupying a dominant position - "alpha", are subordinated to others - having the status of "omega". A dog living with a person treats him as a member of the pack and tries to place him in his social hierarchy, challenging weaker family members, mainly children, but not only them. If a dog shows dominance, e.g. by growling, defending its food bowl, or growling in response to our verbal scolding - this is the first (often ignored) signal that it wants to start dominating our "pack". If we do not detect these first signals of the power struggle in time and do not correct his opinion, over time he will become actively aggressive towards one or several family members - and this will seem to be completely without our fault. The reason may be trivial, e.g. pushing the dog off the couch or removing its head from our lap because, for example, we want to get up from the chair. And the dog bites the man for violating his dominant position. These dogs end up in shelters or are euthanized because the owner did not understand that the seemingly trivial signals were a manifestation of the beginnings of dominance and simply ignored them. There are several types of aggression: defensive, out of fear of pain or punishment; dominant; possessive; territorial; within the same sex; hunting (predator); or parental. A dog can exhibit more than just one type of aggression. Aggressive "dominant" dogs: they are what we often call "macho", self-confident, they tower over everyone. The posture is straight, with the ears pushed forward, the tail is upturned - it slowly fans from side to side, the hair on the back of the neck stands on end. They stare intensely, with menace in their eyes, and they emit a low growl deep in their throats, with their lips pulled forward and their teeth bared. They put their front paws on the other dog's shoulder, climb on the human's leg, and push people aside when passing through doors. Dominants demand from us: a lot of attention, walks, caresses, they defend the bed. When approached during a meal, they react by stopping eating. They do not want to listen to commands, especially those requiring compliance (e.g. "down" or "stay"). Males (most dominants are of this sex) mark the territory even at home. The behavior of defensively aggressive dogs is much more ambivalent. Their body language expresses submissiveness (ears flattened; avoiding eye contact; lowering the head and body; tucking the tail; urinating underneath). They lick their hands and roll over on their backs, exposing their belly. They resist touch, do not like having their paws (fingers) touched, do not like grooming and often run away from an outstretched hand. These are "fear biting" dogs: they bite when cornered and often attack people who turn to walk away and leave them alone. The basic assumption of preventing aggression is - do not allow the dog to achieve the status of dominant over anyone. If a dog knows its place in the hierarchy and is not allowed to challenge the human, it will usually remain a trouble-free member of the family. The first rule in preventing problems is to match the puppy to its owner. The Akita is not the right breed for a gentle, gentle owner or for a tough guy looking for an equally "tough" aggressive dog. A puppy that terrorizes the entire litter will take over the home of a submissive owner, while a fearful puppy requires extra attention to adapt to a new, active home. A puppy behavior test performed by the breeder may help here (see CAMPBELLA tests). The aggression prevention program also includes early "socialization" - socialization, getting used to living with other dogs and people. Puppies should be handled gently, especially between three and four months of age. They should be hand-fed, both by children and adults, and taught to take food without violently grabbing or even snatching it from the hand. They must not be allowed to chase children or people running, jump on people, climb on your leg, or growl for no reason. They should not be allowed to take part in aggressive games such as "attacking" hands, wrestling or pulling, e.g. with a rag. They must not be physically punished for aggressive behavior; in return, they should be denied the rewards of aggression, prevented from repeating this act, and taught alternative behaviors. If the puppy bites or jumps on the child, the child should take the initiative by shouting 'fe!' and crossing his arms (to protect his hands from being caught in his teeth) and walking away. Puppies love to play. If they are denied play when they get too carried away, they will learn to play more carefully.
Organizing playdates with children of different ages, where children are invited into the house to play gently with the puppy and give it treats, benefits both the puppy and the children. Your puppy should be part of a family pack and learn to tolerate postmen, plumbers, delivery people and other strangers. Once your dog has been vaccinated against common dog diseases, you should start exposing him to non-aggressive dogs so that he learns that other dogs and people are friendly too.


Akita training requires patience, consistency and determination. You cannot treat this dog brutally. A properly trained person learns relatively quickly and remembers the "lessons" learned for a long time. The best results are achieved by not constantly repeating the same exercises. However, it should be remembered that it is a Spitz and therefore the most difficult dog to train. Perhaps this fact makes him stubborn and sometimes has bouts of bad temper, which makes him oppose his guardian. The best solution for the guardian in such a situation is to end the training on a given day with a simple and easy command that the Akita will obey, for which he should of course be rewarded. Another difficulty in training an Akita is that dogs of this breed have a strong hunting instinct, especially towards smaller animals. Therefore, the Akita should be familiarized from the age of puppyhood with the presence of other animals, especially dogs, towards which they show a potential tendency to dominate (especially of the same sex). If we want to have two dogs, we should first buy a male and after 3-4 years a female. This is the optimal solution. However, we must remember that an adult dog, even a well-behaved dog, may never accept other animals, so it must be constantly under the supervision of its guardian. Akita is not a dog for everyone, the owner should have leadership qualities and at the same time desire to have a calm and independent companion. The distrust of strangers and the attachment to the owner, for which the Akita is famous, make it an effective defender and guardian. He will not only look after the house in our absence. First of all, he is a great companion who happily pulls the sled in winter, and in summer he accompanies us on mountain hikes, giving us a sense of security. We can even attach him to a special harness via a cord with a shock absorber to a special belt (set approx. PLN 200) and let him pull us up the hill, or buy special saddlebags for him (price approx. PLN 120) so that he can carry his bowl himself , water, food and toys. The weight for adult dogs, evenly distributed on both sides of the saddlebags, can be max. 10kg. Of course, you need to accustom the dog to both pulling and carrying saddlebags gradually, starting with e.g. 0.5 kg on each side and gradually increasing the load. Due to its thick fur, we should not exert it too much in the summer, especially during hot weather, so we should not let our pet suffer from sunstroke (especially the pink nose of white dogs should be protected). This effective defender when necessary is gaining more and more fans.

Preparing the Akita for the exhibition:

The Akita, like other "sled dogs" (Siberian Husky or Alaskan Malamute), is a very representative breed. Even when not prepared for an exhibition, an Akita arouses widespread admiration among those around it. Frequent comments like: "I have never seen such a beautiful dog in my life" speak for themselves. The Akita's coat - medium length with a thick, dense undercoat - makes the dogs of this breed look like large, teddy bears. Before the exhibition, we must bathe the Akita or at least brush it thoroughly, which, however, may not be enough in the case of a white Akita. Brush the bathed Akita "against the grain" until it dries, trying not to break it - so that the fur looks fluffy. However, we must accustom the Akita to all care procedures from a puppy, otherwise bathing an adult dog may cause many difficulties. Properly maintaining the Akita's coat does not require much effort - apart from the shedding period, which dogs of this breed undergo very intensively, especially in spring. We then comb the Akita especially thoroughly and additionally bathe it (which will speed up the hair replacement process). During these 2 weeks, we should refrain from showing the dog, which does not look so beautiful during this time. An interesting fact is that the Akita's undercoat is suitable for making wonderful, warm sweaters... (ZF-K "Bobik" company from Katowice). Apart from the external appearance, the ability to properly present the Akita plays an important role. The dog must be self-confident and be able to present itself nicely. In order to teach the Akita good exhibition posture, we must start learning very early, not just before the exhibition. We teach proper posture to a puppy when it is 8-9 weeks old, because this is how we achieve the best results. It is best to start learning in a quiet place, and as the training progresses, we move it to other places and familiarize it with crowds of people and animals. We cannot treat a proud Akita like other dogs, correcting the position of each of his legs. When starting learning, we must be aware of the fact that we need a lot of patience, calmness and iron consistency. We tell the dog to stand, we raise his head slightly on the leash with one hand, and with the other we show him a treat, e.g. dried beef chews. We should not give him sweets under any circumstances. Even if we brush his teeth with bacon-flavored toothpaste... We reward him when he stands still. If he fidgets, sits up or tries to pull away, we start over. It takes from a few seconds to a few minutes, which is achieved by gradually extending the exercise time. Please remember that training cannot be tiring for your puppy, it should rather be treated as great fun.

Teaching aggression in an adult Akita:

Treats help train a puppy, but as the dog grows, he must receive praise for good behavior and gentle scolding for bad behavior. A dog should deserve everything it receives from its owner. You need to make him sit when he wants to be petted or get a treat, make him sit before going for a walk, before getting out of the car, before putting on the leash. These exercises continually strengthen the owner's position as a leader. You should not leave your dog unattended with children, especially children who do not live at home with them. Children should be taught basic obedience commands so that they can also exercise some control over the dog. You shouldn't praise your dog excessively (or pet him all the time), especially for nothing. Excessive praise and punishment increase the dog's social status and send it contradictory signals. Castration of males will not solve all problems, but it will help prevent dominance aggression and fighting with other males, especially if it is done before sexual maturity. Ultimately, preventing aggression also means that the owner must win every confrontation with the dog. If a dog wins a fight by growling when you try to get him off the couch, try to take a toy from him, or approach his bowl, he is given the green light to take the next step towards taking over. Genes combined with environmental influences create the psyche. You must remember that once the Akita has achieved dominant status, you cannot correct its behavior by force! A dog training specialist may even succeed in forcing the dog to return to aggressive-submissive or defensive-aggressive behavior, and the dog will react to the person out of fear, but such a dog will never be trustworthy around people, even members of its own family. The most that can be achieved is to reduce the frequency and severity of acts of aggression.
Often the gentlest treatment for biting dogs is euthanasia. Animals that bite often wander from house to house and lead lives full of fear and terrible, inhuman pain. Correcting aggressive behavior is best left to a professional animal behavior expert or a very experienced trainer with a good reputation. If we are unlucky, we may come across a person who uses brutal, sadistic methods such as "hanging" or electric collars. Excessive violence and punishment are the main tools of these people's work. You should also talk carefully with possible trainers and choose one who uses the least amount of violence. The beginning of "treatment" is to make a list of things that trigger aggressive behavior and prevent their occurrence. For example, if your dog growls when you try to get him out of bed, don't let him there. Although our first instinct would be to minimize contact between the dog and the person towards whom it is behaving the most aggressively, such action would only encourage the dog to dominate more and more people and strengthen its control over the family. Therefore, the person who has the most problems with the dog should become its main caregiver and provide it with everything the dog needs: food, water, exercise, praise, affection and fun. This person must be able to teach the dog to listen to basic commands ("sit", "stay", "come" and "down"). Most likely, to avoid biting, you will need help with the "down" command, which forces the animal to assume a submissive position). All other family members must completely ignore the dog: no play, no food, no showing of affection. The dog must depend solely on this one person. The dog should be rewarded for any signs of submission such as flattening its ears, looking away (avoiding eye contact), rolling on its back, licking, crouching or lowering its head when reached. Any dominant gestures that the dog accepts should be performed as often as possible and should be praised and given treats from time to time for showing submissiveness. He has to earn everything. As soon as the dog begins to respond, reconditioning can begin, but this should only be done with a qualified behaviorist and trainer. Conditioning includes working with a dog that does not like having its paws or hindquarters touched; it is also referred to as weaning the dog from responding to certain stimuli and conditions. To condition a dog that does not tolerate having its hindquarters touched, first teach the dog to stand on command, then, with an experienced handler at the dog's head, gently touch the dog's hindquarters. If the dog can handle it, praise him and give him a reward. Repeat the praise and reward after each positive reaction. Gradually increase the duration and frequency of the exercise and praise your dog for each act of compliance, however small. Under the right conditions, an aggressive dog can be "retrained" (retrained). Before starting an aggression correction program, however, you must remember that a dog will never be trustworthy around other people and children and if provoked, it may bite. The owner should know the naked truth: he should not feel guilty for putting down an aggressive dog, but he should also realize that if he were to make the same mistakes again, it would be better not to get another dog. A list of symptoms warning of aggression (none of them should be ignored), each of which may be a sign of serious aggressive behavior:

  • excessive tendency to growl, show teeth and snap them in defense of food;
  • possessiveness towards possessions;
  • timidity in new situations or around strangers;
  • severe attacks on other animals such as cats and livestock;
  • leg climbing attempts;
  • snapping of teeth and growling when petted, combed and picked up;
  • frequent attempts to chase moving objects, such as bicycles, skateboards, cars and trucks;
  • repeated runs away from home and long periods of wandering.

If the owner cannot cope with the problem, contact a professional trainer. Under no circumstances should you drop your dog off at a shelter to be taken home by someone unaware of the danger.

How to avoid a dog attack:

  • Avoid entering private property unless invited.
  • Do not run away when confronted with a dog that is threatening with its behavior. Running away only makes the dog more aggressive.
  • Don't be intimidated and show moderate dominance by firmly telling your dog to go home. This tactic usually works wonders. – A firm "fe" and "sit" may also work.
  • Avoid direct eye contact, which the dog perceives as a challenge. Appear relaxed.
  • When the dog starts to back away, slowly back away as well, keeping your eyes on him but without paying too much attention to him. If it starts getting closer again, stop and wait until it moves away again.
  • Don't try to outrun your dog on a bike.
  • Stop, get off the bike so that the bike is between you and the dog. The dog may lose interest when it has no object to chase.
  • Don't try to pet a strange, wandering dog.
  • Never try to touch or pet a dog eating or sleeping.
  • Don't be ashamed to jump on a car, climb a tree or shout for help if a dog threatens you.
  • Don't be shy about asking your dog's owner to leash him until he recognizes you as a friend.
  • Avoid meeting dogs trained to guard (find out if any are patrolling the area when you start walking in a new neighborhood).
  • Report any aggressive dogs roaming or actual biting incidents, even if you were just passing through. Remember that someone else may be less fortunate…
  • Stop, don't move and try to stay calm. Don't scream or run.
  • Teach children not to look him in the eye when they see a dangerous dog approaching and pretend to be a "tree": put their feet close to each other, press their elbows to their chest, and keep their hands under their necks.
  • Look at your dog briefly so you can see where he is, but don't look him in the eye.
  • Don't turn your back on a barking dog.
  • Let the dog sniff you. In most cases, he will leave you as soon as he realizes that you are not really a threat.
  • Only speak to your dog in a calm voice. You can try "go away", "go home", "good dog".
  • Wait until the dog leaves, then slowly back away until you are no longer in sight of him.
  • The last resort if you don't have pepper spray for dogs (no permit required, price approx. PLN 17) may be to throw an object at an aggressive dog, real or fake.
    What to do in the event of a dog attack
    If the dog attacks, "give" him anything - a jacket, a bike, a backpack, a purse - to distract him. If your dog knocks you down, curl up in a ball and lie still - face down on the ground, legs together, fists on the back of your neck, and hands over your ears. In case of bite wounds, seek medical attention immediately. All bites should be reported to the police.

Prepared by: Izyda Bach-Żelewska
Any further distribution, commercial or otherwise, without the consent of the author of the study is prohibited.

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